Song Ku Praphachai Tradition

Song Ku Praphachai Tradition

Prang Ku Praphachai or Ku Ban Na Kham Noi is an important sandstone and laterite religious complex in the Khmer style, depicting the architectural style of an Arokhayasan or ancient hospital popular during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1177-1237) of the Khmer Empire. The celebration, or worshipping rite, of this Prang Ku on waxing 1st of the fifth lunar month has been held continually since the forefathers’ time. Its interesting characteristic has always been the expression of love and strength among the community members who willingly contribute to the expenses of the event. Very prominent also is the mixture of the strong belief in spirits and spirit worshipping, and the belief in Theravada Buddhism.

To have a better understanding of this community and their religious tradition, one is encouraged to visit the local museum Ku Praphachai Learning Center located close to the Ku entrance. The Center was built by the community leaders and the locals themselves, for the purpose of housing their ancient priceless artifacts, including an 800-year-old Lopburi-style Bodhisattava head, a top piece gem of a chatra (royal tiered umbrella) covered with metal rods on 4 sides (local folks call it “Magic Gem”), and a stone slab on which rests an auspicious gold foundation stone. In addition to these valuable items, there is a variety of Lan Chang antique treasures of some 200-300 years back, discovered during the Prang Ku restoration in 1998-2000.

The strong bond of respect that the folks here have for this sacred place can be traced back to the time 50 years ago when the area was but a deep jungle. A hunter group was following some animals’ traces and accidentally came across this ancient complex and an artesian well, a perfect location to do rice farming. As the news spread, more people moved in and formed a new village known as Ban Na Kham Noi. The 5 hunters became big traders whose names were among those listed in the museum’s front room as the ancestors of Ban Na Kham Noi residents.

The love for their communal society has been instilled through time, and is manifested whenever a communal support is needed for any task that will benefit them all. The Prang Ku Museum is one tangible evidence of such love and dedication for a common cause. Khun Po Thong Silawong, head of the museum committee, had played an important role in securing the construction fund of a standard museum building. He sought help from various government departments. Once the obstacles were overcome, the museum started operating and the people could have their valuable heritage pieces kept there. Without such a strong community like Ban Na Khom Noi, running the museum would have been impossible. So Ban Na Kham Noi is a rare showcase of such success.

On the Prang Ku celebration day, Khun Po Thong actively did his job as the community leader, and was always proud to talk about how the people have sustained the love for their hometown. Early that day, the 83-year-old man was already checking around that things were going well as planned. He paid respect to the Buddha’s Relic that was moved temporarily to the event venue for the people to venerate. Then he took up the microphone and began to narrate how the event was being organized. Noteworthy was the fact that the expenditure was from the village folks themselves, and the temple – mainly from a successful pha pa merit-making. The other parties contributing were some government and private offices. They were invited to the event too. The ritual spot was the large open temple ground where the Prang Ku stands. Huge trees provided nice cool shades. The offering table placed in front of the Prang Ku looked striking with its bai si offerings elaborately decorated with naga-like patterns. In a very large bowl, they put jasmine flowers. The square-shaped barai/sacred pond had 9 holy strings around it. The ratchawat fence decorated with small chatra/tiered umbrellas designated the sacred venue. Towering nearby were a number of sand castles.   

The well is the same one mentioned in the legend related to the people’s early settlement. Its water is sacred. So it has been used constantly in important religious rites of the country, also in the 60th birthday anniversary celebration of King Rama IX. As for the Prang Ku, they have the water blessed in the Buddhist and Brahmin traditions first before taking it to ritually bathe the Buddha image and around the Prang Ku.

To the front of the offering table, they put up a pha pa tent, also for 9 monks to be seated. Hundreds of chairs were put under the shady trees beside the complex, for those attending the ritual. A housewife group was preparing bunches of lotus and other flowers. Worshippers bought and offered them to the Budda image. A group of dancers dressed in the Khmer-style attires were sitting there too. People started coming in and soon the place was packed. Those without any seats sat on the mats that were spread out under some big trees. All were waiting for the ritual to begin.

Residents of Ban Na Kham Noi and neaby villages in Tambon Bua Yai hold this belief that before the Prang Ku was constructed, there had been a warrior spirit Chao Pu Lang Khiaw who had protected the area. Eighty-year-old Mr. Sa-ngad Ruenphakdet from the Fine Arts Department who for many decades has been taking care of the ancient religious complex, was around to welcome visitors. He had an interesting story about the Prang Ku restoration in 1998-2000. He was on the team. Before the restoration, the whole structure and the surrounding walls had collapsed. In a subsequent excavation they discovered a Bhotisattava head piece. The news spread. Lots of people flocked in to pay respect to the sacred image. Mr. Sa-ngad said he did see the warrior spirit around. The other belief the people hold is that the well water is sacred and drinkable. So they usually come to take some home to worship.

The ritual started with a Brahmin one. Jum/Po Yai Jum conducted it. He paid homage by reciting some prayers. Later the villagers joined by lighting incense sticks which they put on the offerings. They put alms of money on the sand castles. Next was a prophetic prayer by the 9 monks. The people attended again the prayer session. Then is was time to offer the monks lunch. Three dancer groups (of young girls, middle-aged and elderly women, 70 in all) of Ban Na Kham Noi performed a beautiful dance in front of the Prang Ku. They were soon joined by more student dancers of Bua Yai Phittayakhom School and Kham Kaen Nakhon School. All the pleasant-looking dancers wore beautiful traditional costumes.

Towards the end of the rite, Po Yai Jum walked around and scattered the flowers in his bowl. An aide walked after him carrying the sacred water alms bowl. They advanced to the barai,  walked around it, then sat down and poured the water into the pond. Believers would scoop up the water and sprinkle it over the Buddha image and around the Prang Ku. To complete the rite, they carried some fire rockets, walked 3 rounds around the Prang Ku, then ceremoniously presented the rockets to Luang Pu Ku (the Buddha image in the chedi). They afterwards took the rockets out to be ignited beyond the temple walls. The lit rockets were supposed to give predictions – if they soared high, it would mean a peaceful village and good crops in the year to come.